At a recent trade release day for this wine the Marks courageously showed it against modern benchmarks and international wines...blind, a terrific vote of confidence for their wine. I sat in on the tasting feeling probably more scared than they were, if the wine looked bad, it would be disliked, discussed and then revealed, to what I imagine would have been a deafening silence. Happily for all concerned the wine looked fantastic. Elegant and fresh, as you would expect from classic Blanc de Blancs styles (made solely from Chardonnay). Described as  "a total meltdown at Gembrook Hill" and an act of "pure folly" by Ian Marks, my first question was why had this not happened before? The wine had crisp lemon acidity and notes of toast too. The fruit was precise, displaying fresh green apple and white flowers finishing with fine biscuity notes right at the back. It was as pure as it was elegant and for those of you lucky enough to find some, you should expect to pay around $55 retail and more in restaurants. There are only 200 6 packs available for all 20 million of us, so I'd be quick if I were you.