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2005 Hirsch Hill Cabernet Sauvignon

I am once again delighted with a Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon; in fact I am close to thinking the Valley famous for Pinot and Chardonnay should start getting behind this varietal a little more openly, especially given the lofty heights reached by the greats, Mount Mary and Yarra Yering. The wine has a dark body and cherry leathery edge to it; the nose is earthy, intense and full of cassis, spice, a waft of mint, and subtle aniseed. The Hirsch Hill Cabernet is elegant with nice length. The acidity in the wine is really refreshing and cleans up after a generous mouthful of ripe rich fruit, with notes of mocha chocolate and more trademark cassis and bright red berries. It really is remarkable to think this wine will retail for about $20. I am happy to establish this as a benchmark for me, for which all other $20 Cabernets are judged. It's terrific! Elegance, varietal character, length, I mean what more can we ask for?

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