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2008 Leabrook Estate Gewurztraminer

From first hearing about this label from a Jancis Robinson review and subsequently tasting them years ago, I have always had a soft spot for Leabrook Estate, a small family owned business with a big portfolio. It seems the winemaker Colin Best will lend his hand to just about anything. What for some winemakers may be a stretch, a recent tasting of about half of the portfolio showed wonderful attention to individual grape qualities and styles. The 2008 Gewurztraminer is a gloriously perfumed example, and its mighty aroma, full of musk, rose petals and lychee, are enough to beguile any wine lover, indeed any novice would find it hard to turn this gorgeous wine away. The nose is followed by a palate guided by serious acidity which finds every wrinkle in your cheeks and leaves a chalkiness upon which the tastes linger the longest. This acidity affords a unique quality to this Gewurztraminer, it allows you to have more than one glass, as all too often Gewurztraminer will finish you off in one mouthful. This wine is lean enough to let you immerse yourself in its presence again and again. Look for it in good bottle shops for about $25 and prepare to be seduced.

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