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2008 Rutherglen Estate Fiano

At a recent climate change discussion on wine regions, Rutherglen was likened to an "old draught horse", which was followed by some sheepish smiles, but mostly a lot of nodding heads in agreement. In my mind Rutherglen makes wines designed for consumption with a teaspoon, rather than in a glass, as massively oaked and alcoholic styles are the norm rather than the exception. They also make fortifieds, which are no less than a national treasure, but there was something surprising to be tasted on this day too. I picked up a glass of Rutherglen Estate Fiano and was mightily impressed by its freshness and delightful clean fruit. With notes of grassiness and tropical fruits it has a lovely texture and good acidity that really lingers. There are also notes of white flowers, blossom and pears. While there are still some winery fresh notes, it is a flavoursome and refreshing bottle of wine at its core that totally changed my opinion of Rutherglen in two sips. This wine is about to be released and will cost less then $20.

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