This is a unique product from what is a relatively
main stream producer. The Torbreck Natural Wine Project uses no
additives, no oak, no sulphur, it is exclusively the fermented juice of
Grenache grapes from 50 year old bush vines, nothing else.
The wine offers savoury black olives and red petals
notes, the colour is dark, almost opaque with a purple rim. It has sweet
raspberries, caramel, herbal notes, rosemary and mint on the palate, even
notes of dark cherries and a suggestion of dried citrus peel. There is a
hint of frizzante and it is very primary and spicy, a little like the wine has
just finished fermenting. It has chalky skin tannins, rose petals and
there are even more raspberries. As far as "how does it stack up"
against other wines, well it seems unfinished, but it also shows wonderful
fruit and terrific structure and has good length. As I'm typing I still
get lovely red fruits and a hint of lipstick, which I often see in Grenache,
something a little waxy but perfumed, I guess is a better way to describe
it. The second taste reveals a flavour I associate with those tiny
ligurian olives which I love and happen to think have a little musk and
rose petal flavour, savoury and pretty. There is something harder in the glass
too, like metal or slate, but Idon't really care, it just tastes like wine should, before it is
polished, before it is altered, and I love the roughness in the mouth -
it's not hard, it's just full of character. I'm not sure how much is
still left, but you can get a glass at Giuseppe Arnaldo and Sons at Crown
in Melbourne and enjoy a totally natural glass of wine for yourself.
This is not available in retail shops.
2008 Wirra Wirra The Lost Watch Riesling
What can I say, Riesling is a terrific grape variety. This time of year I find the last vintage wines are entering a richer time in their life. The searing acidity is being matched with more fruit weight and they suit these colder days, yet still have lovely floral notes that seem to mimic the early flowering of some fruit trees which lend a gentle sweet smell to our streets. The Lost Watch Riesling is showing lovely steel and chalky notes, and powerful citrus and blossom and there is a slight richness to the wine, which is great. We make such good Riesling, and The Lost Watch is no exception. It should cost around $20.
2006 Moorooduc Shiraz
I know that some of you have real problems when regions make wine outside their type, but we are the "lucky" country (even if we didn't know that person that said that was being facetious), and we can grow most things anywhere. The Moorooduc Shiraz is from Mornington Peninsula where they tend to be a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir region. It is savoury and spicy and offers a real point of difference from out fruit bomb heritage, (that I hope we move away from or I fear will land us with the next "Sauvignon blanc all tastes the same and is crap" industry trending). Pepper and red fruits and nice acidity make this a very pleasing bottle of wine indeed. Look for it next time you are heading out, it should cost around $30.
2007 Izway Bruce Shiraz
The back of this label says that Bruce is a man of very few words, and in keeping with that sentiment, I will keep this brief.
This
is one of the best bottles of Shiraz I have seen from the Barossa in
ages. If you can find it in retail stores it will cost you about $45
and it is worth every red cent. Done.
2007 The Stump Jump GSM
This is the second of The Stump Jump wines I have reviewed in recent months, they both have terrible labels, but they are both really tasty. This wine for instance will cost about ten dollars, and it tastes as it should, it is light and elegant with nice peppery notes and some raspberry fruit. I won't say much more because it's only ten dollars and deserves to be drunk and not talked about. D'arenberg make so many wines, with wild labels, the newest, perhaps yet to be released, is the Senosilacaphobic Cat Cinsault blend, weird I know, but they all tend to be pretty darn good.
Dutschke The Tokay
Sadly in 10 years this wine will have to be labelled Topaque, as will all Australian Tokay. I have no idea what the powers that be were thinking, it sounds like the sound my cat makes when it coughs. Not something I want to drink. Luckily the Dutschke Tokay transcends such woeful monikers and although not from the hallowed vineyards of Rutherglen it is a beautiful wine. Fine and elegant on the nose, the wine offers wonderful mouth feel, toffee and coffee notes on the palate, and classic dried fruits and nuts. Retailing for around $35, this is a wine well worth having in you cupboard.
2008 Yalumba Y Series Vermentino
I won't go on too much, as wine at this price doesn't seek too much discussion, but suffice to say this is one of the best examples of Italian white varietals being made on our fair shores at the moment. Crisp, lean, savoury and totally refreshing. There was green apple and citrus and lovely chalky acidity. Truly impressive, a gorgeous little bottle of wine, retailing for about $16, some places will offer it cheaper. If you want to try new things then try this wine today. Feel free to contact me to find out who is retailing it around town.
2008 Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir
I smiled instantly when trying this wine for it has had something different done to it that we don't see very often. This Pinot Noir from the Yarra Valley has used some Carbonic Maceration to ferment it (like Beaujolais does). I love Beaujolais and this took me back to the little hamlets amidst the granite hills north of Lyon. The Pinot has loads of sweet fruit, and I mean heaps. It is forward, really juicy, fresh, pretty and moreish. I'd love it with something roasted, or cooked for hours, it can handle strong food, and something charry too. I picture standing around a fire, wrapped in a blanket drinking buckets of this wine and having a great time, not least because the wine made me so happy but because its simplicity is so refreshing. Expect something a little different, and expect to pay around $21, and expect to smile!
2008 Vasse Felix Sauvignon Blanc Semillon
I've not gone out of my way to taste WA Sem Savs (Semillon Sauvignon Blanc ) for a while and I'd forgotten how far away from the typical New Zealand Savvies (Sauvignon Blanc) in terms of taste they were. The Vasse Felix SSB ( see above) was thrillingly spicy and lean, the wine almost prickled me. The nose was really forward, the palate, lean and fresh almost peppery. I can only surmise it is the Semillon that is offering such zippy and linear notes, and it is also this grape that will allow the wine to age far better than a straight Sauvignon Blanc (SB). Grassy and lemony, it was refreshing and full of flavour, and should retail for around $22.
2004 Kir Yanni 'Ramnista' Xinomavro
From half bottle, this Xinomavro (that's the name of the grape) has beautiful earthy and berry fruits, a cross between Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Cabernet, I know that doesn't really make sense, but it is what it reminded me of. The advanced ageing from being in the smaller bottle offers a wine that is really complex and delivers a product quite dissimilar to what it would have been on release. I really enjoyed the tight red fruits and fine acidity in this wine, coupled with firm tannins, and a terrific price. I don't imagine it will be available in too many retailers, but if you find it, it will cost around $20, which is great value.
2008 Growers Garden Sauvignon Blanc from Goon Bag
I remember writing special wines by the glass on various black boards when I was working on the floor in restaurants, and if they were being poured from something other than a bottle I would mention it. Peter Lehmann 'Stonewell from Magnum', for example. I liked it, however it doesn't have the same snigger inducing quality as when you say Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from Goon Bag though, does it? We are now comfortably in what I have decided to refer to as the 'Goon Financial Crisis', which is perfect timing for this new offering from New Zealand. The wine itself is fresh and 'zippy' and perfect for what it costs. The 2 litres will set you back around $20 (approximately $7.70 per 750ml), which I think is great. It is clearly Sauvignon Blanc and happily only 12.5% alcohol. I poured it into a little carafe so I could feel a little posh, and so if anyone else tasted it, it would be easy to convince them that it came from a bottle, it is that good. This will soon become a core product for us, during our vinous GFC.
Mac's Brewery Hop Rocker
The brief history of this beer, as told to me, is that it was New Zealand's first boutique brewery, and while it is now owned by one of the big companies, it still has a cult following across the 'ditch'. Not a classic anecdote I admit, however, I liked the packaging and so tried the lower carb version which did little towards making an impact, but I wanted to try another style, and I'm glad I did. The 'Hop Rocker' is named, I imagine, for its more obvious use of hops and it is quite delightful. Loads of citrus and stone fruit on the nose, and wonderful crisp bitterness on the finish, it's a very nice beer indeed. Closely resembling 'Little Creatures Pale Ale', but with better packaging and a cool little pull-top lid. I enjoyed it immensely and I suggest you find some and 'get on board the Mac train', as they say in New Zealand (I have no idea if that's what they say, but you should try this beer nonetheless!).
From a simple label design and often-overlooked region in Italy, comes a wine that is close to perfect for me. Price, texture and flavour are all there. The wine has a welcoming note of ripe fruit and earth, a softness and new world nature about it. The palate is complex and savoury, full flavoured and really moreish. I was totally stunned by this wine. Best news of all is that it should retail, when you can find it, for about $19, and that makes it one of the best wines available on the market if you ask me.
Lord Nelson Brewery Pale Ale
Another in the line of 'hoppy', refreshing beers around at the moment is the Lord Nelson. This beer is balanced and flavoursome without being too bitter and floral. I think I could drink three of these and still really enjoy it, in some beers the bitterness builds up to the point you need to stop drinking them, but this was terrific. I'm a fan and if you can find it a slab will be around $60, which if you think about how much a pot of beer costs in the city these days, it's a fantastic bargain.
2007 Masi Masianco
An unusual blend of Pinot Grigio and Verduzzo, this wine was quite lean but showing yellow apples and minerality, spice and a full texture. As the wine opened up, there were notes of cooked pears, custard and vanilla. This wine is very pleasant and nicely weighted for some of the heavier dishes that will start to appear as the temperature drops. It will cost around $27 in retail, and is interesting, if not amazing.
2008 Los Hermanos Tempranillo
I'm a fan of the wines from Crittenden Estate, and while a new release wine is still vulnerable, this, as it turns out, is another success. Of course time will tell, but this wine right now is very, very good. It is the first '08 red I have seen and I'm sure that will be the same for most of us. The wine is made as a 'drink young' or 'Joven' style Tempranillo and the acidity that licks at your cheeks and the fresh 'crunchiness' of the fruit backs this up. The wine has dark cherry notes and a sour cream-like flavour, very typical of many of the wines I recently tried in Rioja and Ribera in Spain, and it is so nice to see such flavours being exhibited in Victoria (Patterson Lakes of all places!).
Kellybrook Champagne Cider
Peerless in reputation as this country's best Cider I decided it was time I should try it, not least to see how it stands up against the new wave of Ciders and Perry on the market, but also due to my partiality for ciders.
While obviously in need of a label revamp, or not, depending on your taste, the Kellybrook is both fresh and refreshing. It tasted of ripe apples, has a soft mouth feel and just the slightest hint of sugar. I drank it before enjoying some typical 'Victoria Street' goodness and it fit the occasion nicely.
The cider is nice and refreshing, perfect with a cheese plate, or to finish the day and best of all it should cost less than $20. And for long time fans...it holds its ground perfectly well against new market entrants.
